Rabbits are highly intelligent, curious animals and are popular pets. They are highly social and can get lonely and stressed if kept on their own. Companionship is very important for rabbits and should be considered when adding them to your family.
Annual vaccinations give rabbits protection against life threatening diseases such as Myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease (RHD) which are almost always fatal. As there are no effective treatments for these diseases, vaccinations are essential to protect your rabbits.
Male and female rabbits can be neutered around 4 months of age, preventing unwanted babies. This can reduce aggression and urine spraying in males, both linked to hormones, and will dramatically reduce the risk of a female rabbit developing cancer of the uterus.
Transport
Rabbits are highly sensitive to stress, and it is important to take measures to reduce this wherever possible, especially when transporting them.
Your choice of carrier for your rabbit(s) is very important and can play a big role in keeping your pets calm. When choosing a carrier you should select one that is big enough for them to turn around, but small enough that they still feel secure.
The ideal carrier is made of solid plastic and able to be opened from the top, making it easier for the vet to remove your rabbits from their carrier, or examine them in the carrier if this is where they feel safest.
Cardboard, fabric and wicker carriers are not ideal as they are not waterproof and are able to be chewed. They can be loud, and often don’t allow the same level of ventilation as solid plastic carriers.
When setting up your rabbit’s carrier, be sure to consider:
Absorbency: be sure to place absorbent material such as newspaper or a puppy training pad in or under your carrier in case your rabbit urinates.
Food & water: rabbits need constant access to food and water, so it is important that it is available during the journey.
Sense of security: Partially cover your rabbit’s carrier with a blanket or towel, and consider adding used bedding in with them to provide familiar smells from home. The carrier can also be placed in their run with some food inside for a few days before travelling to develop a sense of familiarity with the carrier.
If you have multiple rabbits that are kept together, bringing additional rabbits from the group will help to calm your pet and reduce the risk of them being rejected from the group upon returning home.
Ideally rabbits will be transported by car or taxi as these are the quietest and least stressful options that give you lots of control over your rabbit’s environment. However, this advice can be adapted for other methods of transport.
Either secure your rabbit’s carrier with a seatbelt or place it securely in the footwell. Partially covering the carrier with a blanket or towel will help them feel more secure but ensure there is still adequate ventilation. Keep music and noise to a minimum while your rabbits are in the car.
General Care
We offer a Friends of Westport rabbit plan, helping you save money on your pet’s routine healthcare. For more information click here.
Rabbits do well eating solely fresh grass and soft hay, which they must have access to all the time. Hay or grass should make up around 80% of their diet, and they should be able to eat at least an amount roughly equivalent to their body size every day. Never feed rabbits grass cuttings from a lawnmower as these ferment and will contain mould from inside the mower. They can be sparingly fed rabbit pellets (only 1-2 tablespoons per day) but should not be fed muesli type food as this is high in fat and sugar and is too soft to effectively wear the teeth down. Rabbits’ teeth are continuously growing, so constant access to rough food such as grass and hay is essential to avoid dental issues. Branches from fruit trees can also be offered to aid your rabbit’s teeth-wearing process, along with fresh green vegetables and herbs such as broccoli, kale, dandelions and spinach. A small cube of carrot or apple can be offered 3-4 times a week only as a special treat, as these are high in sugar.
A rabbit’s digestive tract is quite different to that of a dog or cat, and they must have constant access to food to keep their gut continuously moving. Rabbits will pass faeces (poo) twice – the first of these are called “caecotrophs,” and will be large and soft and are often eaten straight from the rabbits rear end first thing in the morning. Important nutrition is released during this process, and rabbits that are unable to eat their own caecotrophs will fall ill.
A rabbit that has stopped eating may be suffering from a condition known as gut stasis, in which bad bacteria builds up in the gut. Symptoms of gut stasis include bloating of the stomach and loose, malformed stools or none at all. Your rabbit may be quiet and sitting in a hunched position, and may not be eating or drinking normally. If you notice any of these symptoms, or your rabbit is not eating, contact us immediately as an emergency.
Generally, larger breeds of rabbits will be more docile, and smaller breeds can be more feisty, however all can be tamed with regular, gentle handling. It is good to brush your rabbit regularly to keep their coat healthy, and give them a good amount of regular handling time.
When handling your rabbit, it is very important that they are secure and cannot kick out or jump from your arms. Rabbits have very fragile spines and the motion of kicking out to try and escape can cause this to fracture or dislocate.
Hold your rabbit with one hand underneath to support their weight and rear end, and one hand on top. You can also tuck your rabbit’s head into your elbow or cover their eyes to calm them.
Rabbits should NEVER be picked up by the ears or scruff, or in a way that does not support their back. If you are unsure about handling your rabbit safely, our team are happy to offer advice or demonstration.
If you have any concerns at all or need advice on appropriate food, shelter and behaviour please book an appointment to speak to one of our knowledgeable team.
Rabbits require a good amount of space, and while they can be housed in hutches, they should not be confined to these all day. A hutch should be at least 1.5-2 metres in length and with enough height to allow the rabbit to stand up on its back legs. Rabbits are sensitive to heat and stress, so hutches should have an enclosed, shaded end to allow them to keep cool and calm. Wire floors can hurt your rabbit’s feet, and so flooring should be solid or a non-slip board or rug can be used to cover wire flooring if needed. Bedding should be changed every 1-3 days.
Indoor rabbits should be allowed to roam every day in a cool, rabbit-proof area of the home. Items such as cables, furniture and carpets should be inaccessible or protected, and toys should be provided for enrichment. Outdoor rabbits should have access to a run or secure garden. It may be necessary to supervise their run time if you live in an area with dogs, cats or foxes. A run with an enclosed roof will also aid in reducing issues with other neighbouring animals. Be aware of rabbits’ burrowing habits and ensure that your rabbit does not escape or become impossible to reach because they have burrowed into the ground.
Toys should be provided for indoor and outdoor rabbits for enrichment. Tunnels and rabbit houses will also create secure spaces for your rabbit to hide in and feel safe.
As mentioned above, rabbits are social creatures and do best when housed with other rabbits. A group of rabbits will form complex social hierarchies and should be introduced gradually. When introducing rabbits to each other, do so in a space that is new to both rabbits (and thus a neutral territory) and ensure they are supervised. It may help to house new rabbits beside each other in separate cages while they get used to each other, and you should never leave rabbits unsupervised if they are fighting.
Flystrike occurs when flies lay eggs on your rabbit, which then hatch into maggots which burrow into the skin. This can be fatal, and so it is important to check your rabbit’s rear end every day for any urine or faeces which may need to be cleaned and dried. Rabbits are more at risk of flystrike during the summer, so check your rabbit more than once a day at this time of year, and make sure dirty litter and bedding and old food is removed so as not to attract flies. Obese, arthritic rabbits and those with poor diets are at an increased risk of flystrike as faeces can accumulate on their bottom if they are unable to squat or clean themselves properly. Any wounds on your rabbit should be thoroughly cleaned and covered if possible to avoid flystrike in this area. Products such as Rearguard are available which can help protect your rabbits – speak to our team for advice on preventing flystrike with rabbits.
If you find maggots on your rabbit contact us immediately as this is a life-threatening emergency.
Your pet’s health is important.
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